Skip to main content

Coat Progress - Part 3

A nasty case of pink eye slowed me down a bit over the weekend, but I am still working away at the coat.

Some details...

Yoke with tabs:

Burda Talea in construction

Pocket with flap:

Burda Talea in construction

The pocket is lined. To ensure that none of the lining peeked out to the front, I slipstitched the pocket to the coat before topstitching. I placed the stitches on the underside of the folded edge of the pocket to prevent a flattened look. Burda's instructions don't include lining for the pocket, but a lined pocket feels so much nicer.

Back latch:

Burda Talea in construction

Burda calls this a "latch." North American patterns would probably call it a belt? I kind of like latch. I really like the seams on the back.

Construction thoughts...

This project is a bit of a stretch for me. My experience with tailoring and jacket/coat making is pretty minimal. It seems like something I might want to do more of someday, but right now I just don't have much need for tailored clothes in my life. So, for this coat I've been relying heavily on books and Threads articles to help me out. The problem is that this Talea pattern doesn't have the traditional tailored jacket features -the princess seams curve in toward the top on both front and back, the collar has a stand (rather than being notched), and the facing is cut on to the front. So, this has left me with more questions than answers when I try to look things up in the books or articles. How should the front be interfaced? Does it need a back stay? Is padstitching helpful for a collar on a stand?

For the most part, I'm just going with my best guess after reading about it and reminding myself that no one's life hangs in the balance if I don't get it right. I interfaced the front piece and the upper part of the side front to give the shoulder-to-bust section some support because according to Fit for Real People I have a hollow chest (which I find really discouraging for some reason. Ah, well. It's better than a hollow head. Or a hollow heart). But, I digress...

Burda Talea in construction

I added a back stay made from some a lightweight woven cotton. You can see the inside of the seams here. Each seam is graded and the bottom piece is trimmed with pinking shears to avoid a ridge on the right side. A couple sections of the back stay seam allowance did not get caught in the topstitching.

Moving forward...

The next part that I should be working on is the collar. I am rather intimidated by this collar.

Burda Talea in construction

The top piece is the collar and the bottom is the collar stand. You can see they are quite large. It's pretty important that the collar lay nicely on the coat and I'm not sure what to do at this stage with interfacing or padstitching or other techniques to help it do that. Burda's instructions have you fold the under collar lengthwise and then pin the upper collar to it, but I don't know if that's going to be enough. If you have any suggestions for me, I'd love to hear them.

Now I think I'll go assemble the sleeves and do some more collar pondering.


  1. Nice work so far! I also like the new blog design!

  2. Impressed, as usual. I too, like the new blog design!

  3. Wow! This is going to one gorgeous coat!


Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Shopping Bags

Most stores in our town charge you a nickel for a plastic bag when you check out. I love this practice and the way that it encourages people to bring their own cloth bags or reuse their plastic ones. My habit of bringing along bags to the grocery store is well established, but I used to find myself stuck at places like the drug store or farmer's market or other impromptu stops. Then I picked up a bag at an upscale kitchen goods store that rolls up quite compactly. Now I keep that in my purse, so I always have a bag with me.

I like my bag so much that I wanted to replicate it for the art sale. The final result is a hybrid of the bag I purchased and these that I made last year.

The bag is a little bigger than the average plastic grocery bag. The velcro tab is used to keep the bag rolled up, but also can close the top of the bag when it is full.

Most of the bag is a single layer of cotton, but the handles are faced. There is a double row of top-stitching around both edges of the handl…

Grocery Bags

More gifts!

These are just like the still-all-too-ubiquitous plastic grocery bags, but they're fabric. 

I followed this tutorial and you actually use a plastic bag as a pattern.  The instructions are very good and include a pocket so that the bag can be folded up and is easy to keep in a purse or a car's glove box.

Mostly for the sake of the gift recipients, here's how to fold up the bag....

1.  Lay the bag pocket side down and fold it length-wise using the edges of the pocket as a guide.

2.  Fold it in half, aligning the top of the handles with the bottom of the bag.

3.  Fold in half again and then reach into pocket with your hand and turn the whole thing (pocket included) inside out.

Happy shopping!

Christmas Table Runner

S asked me to make a Christmas table runner for her shop. Her only suggestions about what it should look like were "not too fussy or busy."

I decided on a simple applique of three trees on a linen background. The runner is 60" long and 13" wide.

For the trees, I used a lightweight fusible product and then straight-stitched around the edges. I like the raw-edge applique look, but don't use it very often.

The border and backing is an apple green color that didn't photograph well. I was happy with the mitered corners, but they don't look so good (a little lumpy) in the pictures. I do really like the narrow folded border inside the green one. I only had a small amount of the striped fabric, but think this was a good way to use it.

I was so happy with this when I finished it a couple of weeks ago, but now that I'm looking at the pictures, I'm less than thrilled. I'm really hoping that it is just the pictures, but it looks wrinkly and rumpled to me…