Let's start with the things I do like...
This is the J Stern Designs Misses' Jeans pattern. It is intended to be used with regular (non-stretch) denim. The jeans are fitted with a low rise and a boot-cut leg. Optional back flap pockets are included. Overall, I thought the fit was pretty good. Of course, I did have to make some adjustments, but they weren't drastic changes. I think this is a great draft for jeans and could look very RTW.
The design is kind of based on an EKG reading of a heartbeat. (The reading on my jeans would likely indicate some sort of unfortunate cardiac event). While I don't have any specific recollection, I think I may have seen this somewhere else (ETA: I did see this somewhere else! I knew this couldn't have been my original idea. Check out Mary Nanna's jeans). I think I like how they turned out.
I Made Jeans!
I've been wanting to try making jeans for awhile now. It feels good to have tried and now know what it's all about. The topstitching started out very frustrating. Sometimes my machine worked well with the upholstery thread that I chose and sometimes it wouldn't work at all. I spent a lot of time adjusting tension, rethreading, ripping out stitches, etc. While topstitching the waistband, I decided to switch to using a triple-straight stitch with regular thread. That worked much better. The thread is the same color, but you can tell the difference between the two types of topstitching. Not ideal, but by this point I knew these weren't going to be my new favorite jeans. I found the rivets quite easy to use. I pounded a hole in the jeans with a nail and hammer and then set the rivet with the setting tool. Pretty easy.
And then what I don't like...
Fit in Back
I'm not showing you myself wearing the jeans from the rear to save myself some serious embarrassment. The jeans are too tight in back. I had deemed them entirely unwearable, but have since worn them a couple of times at home and I think they might be growing on me. Literally. I think they're stretching out. I let them out as much as I could.
I'm not so excited about this particular cut of denim. It's too blue - I'd prefer a darker wash. Also, I think it is too lightweight. That doesn't help with the too-tightness in the back. I bought the denim at least a couple of years ago thinking of trouser jeans, but never got to that. The plan was for these to be a practice pair, so this is no big loss.
Since I will likely try another pair, here are the changes I made (for my own sake - to check back later):
- Started with size 8.
- Change s.a. to 0.25" on inseam from 2" below crotch to knee on back pieces only.
- Taper to 0.75" s.a. at CB waist.
- Scoop out crotch 0.25" at rear.
- Trim 1/8" off each (narrow) end of yoke pieces.
- Change s.a. to 3/8" on side seams from waist to upper thigh on front and back pcs. Let out back leg at side seams 0.25".
- Back Pocket: Trim 3/8" from each (vertical) side. Remove 3/4" from bottom.
Next up: a sweater. It's cold here!!